Clear dashi, a lingering depth

It looks clear and delicate, yet the impression it leaves is anything but slight. The kitsune udon at 道頓堀 今井 combines elegance with a full-bodied savoriness.

When I missed Osaka-style dashi, the Daimaru Shinsaibashi branch let me stop by without waiting in line. It has something of the poise of Kyoto’s clear dashi, but the savory depth of dried fish, the sweetness and the lingering finish are all more substantial. Its neat appearance gives way to a broth with real concentration.

Then comes the sweetness of the kitsune—the seasoned fried tofu—which makes the dashi taste fuller still. The familiar warmth settles in the stomach for more than its gentleness. Inside this clear bowl is the generous, lasting depth I associate with Osaka.